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Whenever curating a list of London’s finest eateries, one might foresee renowned Michelin-starred names. However, situated high among these food heavyweights is a modest salonu located in a distant corner of north London.

An Surprise Accolade

This little Turkish restaurant, focusing in the culinary delights of Mersin, a metropolis on Turkey’s south coast, has been named the fourth top restaurant in the metropolis by a prominent food magazine. This honour has left the owners completely shocked.

“I’m totally surprised,” states the proprietor, alluding to his parents’ hard graft that culminated in their humble restaurant earning such a high ranking on a notable 99-strong list.

The Appeal of Modesty

This compact space, which started as a simple cafe before its transformation into a buzzing food hotspot, has kept much of its original character. It fits just over 20 people and, aside from the vibrant live cooking display, the interior remains mostly unchanged. “It is a compact and cozy space,” comments the owner.

A Namesake Creation: Tantuni

However, it is focused on the fare, and this eatery more than delivers. The restaurant’s namesake dish, tantuni, is a simple joy. Choice of meat—lamb or lamb or chicken—is steamed to maintain a moist, juicy consistency.

It is then added into a sizeable pan with spices and oil, which are mixed in gradually. Once the flavourful mixture starts to simmer, homemade lavaş—a soft bread—is slapped on top to absorb all the juices. Finely sliced onions and a dash of parsley are added before the flavourful meat is folded neatly inside.

The wrap is typically enjoyed with a drizzle of lemon or some pickles. The outcome is a mighty slap of flavour, with gentle hints of sumac, sharp onions and spicy, paprika-laced oil pulling it all in harmony.

Other Than the Classic Tantuni

Another option is yoğurtlu tantuni, where the savoury lavaş is sliced and finished with yogurt, tomato sauce and rich, nutty brown butter. A prominent food critic called this dish “a part of London’s few ideal, faultless dishes”.

For dessert, the eatery’s künefe is a delight. It is soaked in a more modest amount of syrup than is typical, giving it a more intense, nuttier and not overly sweet taste.

Rising Above the Titans

Interestingly, this unassuming restaurant has been placed higher than several celebrated three-Michelin-starred venues. It finds itself close to the summit of the list, just after other high-profile dining destinations.

Whereas two people could easily leave this place full for under £25, comparable experiences at luxury establishments can run into many times that price.

A Ethos of Hospitality

It is also part of several Turkish restaurants included and is located well beyond the city’s central zones. “It’s not focused on luxury. London is an expensive city. It is expectation that in an expensive place you’re going to have the finest service and top food but I don’t agree with that,” states the owner.

“In my view what is crucial is friendliness, friendliness and somewhere you can be yourself and feel calm.”

The sentiment is echoed by the list’s editor, who stated that if he were in a position of power, he would “require to have every chef in London visit this restaurant as a final lesson, to show them the pitfalls of excess, and to demonstrate what is possible if you do a few – or three – things to their utmost best”.

A Path of Hard Work

Unlike most chefs heading kitchens in the list’s highest ranks, the driving force behind the food didn’t train at elite establishments. “I am truly happy of our restaurant and our mum,” adds her son.

A lot of restaurants require years to find their footing, but this eatery first launched seven years ago. Its success is owing to tireless, seven-day weeks of dedication.

“My mum was extremely tired. She would buy ingredients in the morning and make the food in the afternoon. Everything is prepared manually; she would manage all of this. She is a single mum and she balanced a personal life but her friends would support her to support her. She was raising children and a house to look after as well. Each of these responsibilities shaped her into what she is now: a exceptional person,” he reflects.

An Recognition for the Community

The restaurant’s accolade is bound to resonate beyond its own premises. “I think many people would be proud, as I am, because the Turkish community is a significant part of London,” concludes the owner, highlighting the greater importance of this culinary achievement.